Saturday, March 17, 2012

Dreams, Violators and Finished Projects

It's been a while since my last post, but that definitely doesn't mean I havn't been climbing!

Since my last post, I found me a rock climbing woman who sends hard! And well, she's inspired me to push my limits to, you know, impress her with my skillz and such. Below you'll see a picture of her climbing Tangerine Dream, a 5.10d climb (debated to be a 5.11a) with me belaying her from the top. She smoked that route! Way to go Cat!! The pics after these are other highlightable climbs.



I reattempted the Violator (5.11c) this week at the Quarry and sailed past the crux compared to my previous attempt. This 100 foot route well earned a 5.11c rating with its midline crux involving lie-back crimps to sloper and heal hook moves. The top out isn't so easy either. It necessitates a cautious and balanced traverse along a ledge to a triple ringed rap station. Yup, three rings rather than two... when you're 100 foot up, sometimes another ring eases the already unsettled nerves.



These two gym climbs are my current favorites! The orange one on the left has a 1 hand, 1 foot, 3 finger pocket start. You move immediately with your left for a far reaching single finger pocket. Crush through some crimps with interesting foot maneuvers to an undercling crimp and balancy finish. Pretty fun and really rewarding to finish it after a couple days of projecting it. It's rating is V5-.

The yellow sloper route on the right is all about balance. Your feet do a hanging switch from left to right at the fourth sloper. Stick those feet, make your move to the next sloper and power up to the upper section and you past the crux. One more big move to the top and you're home safe. This route is rated V4. Super fun!

Currently I'm working through a couple of V6 projects. 

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

The Pit: Flagstaff, AZ



Flagstaff, AZ
The Pit (Le Petit Verdon)



Swiss Tower Wall
Lower Route: True Value, 5.11a
Upper Route: Shark Bait, 5.11d

This limestone canyon is full of pockety & pumpy routes with a bunch of really fun roof problems. I intended on climbing True Value on Swiss Tower but couldn't see the bolt over the mini roof marked by a large flake to work through. So I traversed left and took the alternate 5.11d finish that starts at mid point. It begins with a sweet roof section followed by an interesting face climb. Very unique side pulleys and pockety ridges after the roof. Very fun climb! Glad I took the alternate route!

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Riverside Quarry



Warm-up Route: Whammy, 5.10b
Riverside, CA
The Quarry
Dec. 2011















Route: Violator, 5.11c
(work in progress)


The heal hook to sloper to sloper crux is over 40 feet up!



















This area has over a hundred routes
ranging from 5.8 - 5.14a
Classic granite feel
Longest climbs about 170 feet
Not bad for an abandoned rock quarry!
Definitely a new favorite So Cal climbing spot

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Dream Climb

Bucket List Dream Climb


climbing: a history


Pirates Cove - Huntington Beach, CA
Nov. 2011



Joshua Tree, CA
Nov. 2011





Taquitz Peak in Idyllwild, CA
Route: Angels Fright 5.6
7 pitches, over 700 feet
Aug. 2011


 Topping out on Taquitz Peak










New Jack City
Route: 5.10c
June 2011





Apple Valley, CA
Route: World Full of Hate 5.11c/d
Jan. 2011




Apple Valley, CA
Route: Torn Flesh 10c/d
Sept. 2010





Java Wall
Route: Espresso 5.11a
Sept. 2010






New Jack City - Apple Valley, CA
Route: Red Devil, 5.12a (did not complete)
Nov. 2010



Big Rock - Riverside, CA
Route: The Roof 5.9
Aug. 2010








Echo Cliffs - Malibu, CA
Route: 5.10a
Feb. 2009




Big Rock - Riverside, CA
Route: The Roof 5.9
Feb. 2009





Joshua Tree, CA
Route: 5.11
Mar. 2008





Echo Cliffs - Malibu, CA
Balance Rock and Java Wall
Feb. 2008




Azusa Urban Climbing
Jan. 2008







Camelback Mountain - Phoenix, AZ
Mar. 2006




Jack's Canyon - Yavapai, AZ
Jan. 2006







First lead climb (120ft)
Camelback Mountain - Phoenix, AZ
Praying Monk, 5.7
Aug, 2005



60 ft hanging repel off the backside of the Praying Monk
Did I mention this was my first lead?




Where it all began... Phoenix, AZ
Camelback Mountain
June 2004